Ships log * 16
Safely back in London - once immigration had given me a thorough checking and was satisfied that I wasn't planning to work illegally or try to over stay my welcome - now enjoying the peacefulness of Walthanstow (East London) and sanctury at sister Frances place.  Seeing lines of green trees is a pleasure ...

... but hearing spoken english is somewhat difficult - I have been used to the constant deciphering of english spoken with a number of different accents from around the world, as well as concentrating on the spoken french and spanish around me but understanding the English speaking english is REALLY a challenge !!

But I digress slightly ... had a very relaxing week in Las Palmas (Gran Canaria) eating many pastries and pizza, had devine seafood paella, and explored the vast array of volcanic terrain around the island.  Cabin mate Chris hired a car and with various friends on two separte occasions we circumnavigated and cross navigated the island fully utilising the switch back  and cliff top roads.

The scenery was stark but incredible and in complete contrast to the man made beaches in the resort areas of the island...

 cacti grew wild on almost every hillside....

...and we managed to get to the the highest point of the island which afforded a spectacular view back to the port (in the distance middle left of photo) and in fact felt like we were on top of the world (see  level with the clouds) !!

Back In Las Palmas we checked out the 15th and 16th century churches ...

...and delighted in the multi pastel coloured houses  ....

...and skinny, steep streets.

The Jardin de Canaria on the outskirts of Las Palmas had a fabulous section of cacti and succulent which had me taking taking numerous photos - the succulents were very similar to at home...











... but the cacti were incredible, some dainty....

and some VERY spikey ...

...but such a variety !!

WOW !! Can't believe it is the end of my first adventure to west Africa - my mission was to fit in and be useful - I am happy I have done that and am soooooo looking forward to returning.

This will be my last blog post for a while resuming mid Aug after I arrive in the Congo - thank you for all the complimentary emails over the past 2 mth  - I have been quite taken aback at the interest in my blog - so long for now - adios, au revoir and see ya bro :)

 

Ships log # 15
Am writing from the shipyard of Las Palmas on the island of Gran Canaria which is a part of Spain but is geographically located off the coast of Morocco.  We completed our sail here with perfect weather and were able to enjoy worship on the bow accompanied by minki whales on one occasion.

There was minimal issues with seasickness and several people sleeped outside with their hammocks strung up on the deck...

I just enjoyed the view and being at sea :)

It is a balmy 24 deg C here in Las Palmas (but not humid thank goodness) and the water temperature I understand is 21 deg C - YEH !!  We docked successfully on Thurs with the help of local tugs - manoevuring us into a very tight spot (parallel parking in the real world) and then another ship has since berthed up against us - our portside sea view is now obscured by pipes, rails and rusty metal.

We have enthusiastically explored the local surrounds as they are VERY clean, pollution free and friendly - a stark contrast to Guinea.  We enjoyed our first evening out eating fresh fish on the board walk  watching  local families walking, running and simply promenading (!!) in the cool  (21 deg C) of the evening - we were the only people eating so early @ 6.30pm (so institutionalised).  Here siesta time takes up half the afternoon (when the shops mostly close) so people don't tend to come out for dinner until 8pm.  The main beach here is flanked by low rise appartment blocks with quaint adjacent streets . 

 The summer holiday season isn't here yet so it is a pleasure to wander around feeling safe and in fresh air.  Am definitely enjoying the start to my week of R+R and have booked a dive trip with UK nurse (Frances) already.


We (Frances and I) are disembarking from the ship early on Monday morning and into a local hotel until I fly back to London in a weeks time - will be able to have breakfast when and where we want - there are so many pastry and deli shops here as well as frozen yoghurt and gelato outlets !!  The plan though is to walk the promenade from one end to the other BEFORE breakfast (distance as per photo above) - a great start to the day I feel.  The rest of the week will see me exploring the more historic part of town, drive around the island (has good scenery and quaint villages), read yet more books, enjoy more pizza and sample the paella.  I am learning a few essential spanish words and phrases from my cabin mate - greetings, how to order coffee, pastries, paella and beer - and remembering to say "Oola" instead of "bonjour", "por favor" instead of "si vous plais", "gracias" instead of "merci", and "si" instead of "oui"  !!  Have also learnt the first few numbers and plan to extend my brain a bit more each day - lots of fun :)

Not much to write today but will add more after my return to London as will not have much interent available this next week.  It is a shame to come to the end of this portion of my African adventure but am relishing in the thought of returning and continuing where I have left off.  I am a known quantity in the OR now and am looking forward to not feeling like a fish out of water (haha) but being able to orientate new crew members as I was.  Still so much to look forward to. For now - adios amigo  :)

Ships log #14
We are now at sea midway thru the voyage to the Canary Islands having departed relatively on time on Sat 2pm with much noise from local tugs and our own horn - I think the whole of Conakry knew we were leaving - many locals lined the wharf area waving and the decks were lined with most of the crew returning the favour as the gangplank was hoisted up onto the top deck and the last of the ropes were released from the dock - the tug boats ensured the ship slide easily away from the dock before turning a full 180 deg in the harbour to face the open sea - the weather has been VERY favourable with calm seas so far and just over a day to go.  The ship rocks slightly but most have got their sea legs very quickly especially the toddlers who are enjoying running down (!!) the deck an activity not normally permitted but with parents in hot persuit.

I did pirate watch the first night but now we are out of the Gulf of Guinea we are considered safe but  the oil tankers are much more of a target than us - we have 250 people to overpower them her anyway where the tankers often have as little as 6 crew members. We have instructions of what to do if such a crisis occurs.

If you want to track us you can go to  - www.marinetraffic.com - on the live map page put in the name of the vessel as Africa Mercy - we are currently off the western Sahara having passed by Guinea-Bissau, Senegal, and Mauriatinia over the past few days.

There have been various activites arranged for the evenings while at sea but the day sightings of flying fish, common dolphins, minki whales, giant turtles and mantar ray has excited all. It has also been fascinating to see the stars clearly here at night with little reflected light around you on the top deck - many people have the app Starwalk on their Ipod which allows with GPS assistance to see real time stars if you point the device skyward.  It even works inside - a real treat to see as it has names of the stars and consolations and you can zoom for further detail - one chap also tracks the NASA satellites so one was seen a couple of nights ago as it cycled past us.  I have also taken the opportunity to take in a tour of the bridge and the engine room as the engineers and officers are particularly obliging.

All too soon this voyage will be finished as we get back on dry land but so much more still to come - have had discussions with the OR manager about my work so far and have been asked to be a key member of the plastic surgery team on my return to the Africa Mercy in the Congo for Sept/Oct when a regularly visiting Sth African surgeon will come.  I am delighted of course to slot in wherever I am needed - what a joy to be still part of this exercise in humanity.

Ships log # 13

Sunday (last week)
Church today involved dressing for the occasion with my new African outfit again and walking 20 min in the humid heat to the Amour du dieu l'eclise (Love of God church) once again for the final time.  This church is evangelical pentacostal and the service is full of praise of the lord, singing and dancing and helluluyahs.  Today the service was prolonged by over an hour (total 3hr 45min) due to it being Mother's day here in Guinea and many blessings being bestowed on Mercy Ships as everybody is aware of our imminent departure within a week.  I had to stand up for the special prayers for mothers which was quite something amongst all the local women - got lots of knowing smiles all around me.

Soon after our return to the ship over 30 departing crew gathered alongside the remaining approx 250 crew members (who were to sail to the Canary islands) for fond farewells.  Emotion flowed and many emails were exchanged.  It has been surprising how easily one forms relationships with people you live and work alongside in such a short period of time.  I have more people to visit in the UK now as well as Geneva, Ireland and France - oh boy what a busy few years may be coming for me!!  As part of the remaining crew we formed a waving line of honour for the departing vehicles heading for the airport - many of these crew members had been in Guinea during the entire outreach (or longer) - a full 10mth of living and breathing this mission in west Africa.

Monday (last week)
I started in my reassigned position today - that of crew services - they are a very pleasant bunch and I have been "taught" how to clean toilets and mop floors properly !!  A bit like teaching your grandmother to suck eggs I guess when one is a mother and OR nurse already !!  I have however learnt a few more tricks of the trade :)

These past few days many amazing stories have emerged from farewell  and final worship events - here are just a few:
- some Guinea day workers associated with the Physio department were taken on a day trip to a local island within sight of the port for a thankyou picnic lunch as they had never been there before, didn't know how to swim, nor enjoyed relaxed time at a beach
- previously nationally known soccer (football) player who has been a patient on Mercy Ships to have a major disfigurement corrected, was recognised in a local restaurant by a teenage boy - the patient had been out of public life for more than 5 yr due to the increasing disfigurement - he of course was very humbled and the event promoted his self esteem beyond all measure
- one of the OR trained day workers will begin work this week at the main Conakry  hospital, Donka, in OR cleaning services and plans to instigate a rubbish disposal program to prevent bodily wastes, etc going into  communal rubbish, much of which is regularly foraged thru by the general population to see if there is anything useful
- a taxi driver who delivered an elderly woman to the Mercy Ships screening day over 10mth ago has taken this woman back into his house upon dishcarge (she had a large facial tumour) because her family didn't want her back because they thought she was cursed
- an infant was secreted away from his extended family by  his father and brought to Mercy Ships for surgery for his cleft lip and palate - his mother had become very unwell and the local "doctor" thought that if they sacrificed (literally) the baby - who was obviously had a demon in him - the mother would be cured.

Tuesday (last week)
Accompanied a couple of crew mates to the local market after work today to buy an African man's shirt (young French chap wanted one) and have another one made by a tailor (UK nurse wanted one to match her skirt for her father to wear !!).  While we were in the tailors (a large building above the markets with a mezzanine floor full of busy seamstresses which is open to the air on both sides)  a storm arrived and the wind blew thru - the horizontal rain accompanied it shortly after and there was a mad scampering to cover material and machines. This was yet another pre-rainy season storm with gale force winds and torrential rain which blew off stall roofs and flimsy window shutters.  We were instructed to sit and wait it out under cover - we huddled on hastily offered stools watching the seamstresses continuing their work in virtually darkness (the power had of course gone off) peddling at their ancient Singer sewing machines with the light from their cellphones to assist.  It was only about 6pm (sun set due around 7pm) but the clouds had completely covered the sun so the little daylight was useless in these surroundings.  We waited in this setting admiring the womens' work and exchanging pleasantries and admiration in our limited french.  Fortunately the young man accompanying us was from France so I was able to ask quite a lot about the dresses that were being fashioned before my eyes - they are amazingly clever making each garment unique with imbelishments and design but they NEVER do any internal finishing - guess it saves a lot of time.

Once the rain started to ease we decided to risk walking back to the ship.  Hailing a taxi was a waste of time as traffic was gridlocked with the roads flooded and impassable in places.  The drainage system is so blocked and the amount of rain in such a short period of time was more than most systems could cope with anyway.  We finally returned to the ship thoroughly drenched but still warm.  The temperature however had dropped from a balmy 35 deg C to around 22 deg C but the humidity had dramatically risen.  This is also apparently a phenomenon of pre-rainy season.  Due to the filthy roads  (and hence water) and rubbish lying around I went straight into the shower on my return - shoes and all - and scrubbed everything to within an inch of its life !!

Wednesday (last week)
Today we were invited to a very significant event for Guinea.  They put on a thankyou concert for Mercy Ships at the Peoples Palace which is a huge conference/event centre in downtown Conakry.  President Conde and his wife were in attendence along with several ministers.  They gave out certificates of appreciation to key Mercy Ships personnel and there were many speeches in french (very little of it was translated unfortunately) but once that was over we (the entire crew) settled back to enjoy the best Guinea has to offer:
- there was an amazing 12 piece women's rock band which had one woman rolling on the floor playing an electric guitar - all were in the commonly worn long skirt and top attire and their songs were in french but the sound and rythmn was infectious
- acrobats and juggles to rival le circ de soleil then performed with no safety mechanisms or appropriate flooring - they balanced from great heights and contorted bodies until it made us feel sick to watch
- a very clever robotic Michael Jackson inspired group of 5 young men continued to amaze and delight with their movements and characterisations which involved hats and shoes coming off and on amongst group members - very clever
- an Englsih speaking pop band had us singing in with known songs with the auditorium shaking with the stamping and loud singing we generated
- traditional African drummers and dancers completed the program with a rousing rendition of continued beating of drums of all sorts (continuously for at least 20 min I estimated)  with men and women dancing at the same time - truly amazing feat of fitness all with a broad smiles on therir faces - this was the best performance I thought
- we came away exhausted and amazed at their technical expertise and were escorted back on our buses thru the back stage area - being able to thank them personally which was both a delight to us and to them.  We were escorted to the venue and returned by presidental assigned security and armed forces - traffic being stopped or diverted for our benefit with flashing lights before us and aft - this honour shows the regard they have for Mercy Ships and are hoping they will return very soon.  What an absolute treat to be part of this event.

Thursday (last week)
Have managed (survived) nearly a week of cleaning toilets and mopping floors - feel like Sadie the cleaning lady in my head scarf and scrubs - one friendly crew member likened me to Hilda Ogden - but what a shame I forgot to bring my curlers !!  It is an interesting exercise being part of crew services (very glorified name I feel).  While I work around the ship cleaning floors, toilets, stairs and office spaces other crew members that pass me are either very polite, sometimes complementing me on a lovely clean window, somtimes stopping for a chat, but usually pass me with a hurried "Sorry" as they step over my mop or place their hand on my freshly cleaned door handle.  I announce to the office workers (many of which I know quite well now) that I am "room service" (with a smile).  To which all have responded by welcoming me in to empty their trash cans and exiting the cramped office to allow for vacuuming.  I feel sometimes that I am just part of  the environment and of no importance but then someone will say that I am being very thorough and so efficient with attention to detail - once an OR nurse always an OR nurse I guess, or maybe thats some of motherly attention to detail coming thru.

Friday (last week)
This night saw us going out to town for a meal for the last time - chose a Turkish restaurant selling Shawarma which is similar to the Turkish kebabs we have at home but much more yummy - we had a starter of hummus which was to die for - so creamy and served with pita bread and gherkins - yum yum :)   We have advised that the plan is to sail from Conakry on Saturday but all exact security and departure details have been withheld for obvious reasons of Security (!!) - there have numerous attempts by stowaways at this port and placment of contraband to be picked up by unknowns in the European port of our destination.  We have been going thru numerous impromptu at sea drills this week and been advised to take all measures to ensure our own and Mercy Ships safetly and security by doing several random stowaway checks of the entire ship.  The sign up sheet for stowaway watch during our last few days was rapidly filled and as turned out was of great benefit as an attempt was made during this last night in port. 

Ships log # 12
The previous week continues ...

Saturday (last week)
Up early today for a visit to a local orphange which is part of another Mercy ministry taken on by members of the crew.  Traffic was very heavy this morning due to unrest in the part of the city which was thru the most direct route.  We took nearly 3hr to get there instead of the usually 45-60 min.  Our return journey fortunately took just 40 min.  Needless to say we were very hot, tired and extremely hungry when we finally returned to the Africa Mercy.

The orpahange is run by the the very kind Mr Lazares and houses about 25 children ranging from toddles to 10 year olds.  Mercy Ship personnel have visited on a weekly basis since Aug 2012 offering support for playtimes, the emotional needs of individual children, and sometimes gifts of excess food and supplies. We  waited patiently for the children who were initially shy at the new faces but then keen to interact once their tummies were fill (morning tea time). 

 

We brought balloons and whistle blowers - both of which were an interesting phenomenon for the children. Balloons intrigued them and with no wind and heavy humidity they stayed down nearer ground level so could be enjoyed by all ages.

 This wee girl was thoroughly engrossed in her balloon and followed it all over the courtyard despite the limitation of a leg in plaster.

The whistle blowers (typically seen at small children's birthday parties) were a great hit initially but as the extendable tube became crumpled, damp and didn't recoil nicely the children tired of them and wanted a new one. So typical of any child worldwide, but the older children soon discovered that the whistle actually blew louder without the extension so they were rapidly torn off and several of the remaining mouth pieces were stacked together to make a very piercing noise - especially by the boys !!

It was actually quite fortunate that we were delayed in returning to the ship because the ships engines were getting a bit of major maintenance done and there was to be a full shut down of power for at least 4 hr, possibly longer.  It was all sorted come our return. and the movie night  proceeded as planned showing the "The Great Escape" - we can't be too fussy here with regards available movies and it was just as intertaining 2nd time around.

Also what was fortunate about the slow traffic this morning to the orphange (I try to be the one  to find the positives) as we literally crawled at a little slower than walking pace thru the outskirts of Conakry seeing even more of the real Guinea than I have seen before.

The industry occurring on the side of the road continues to amaze me... heres just some of what I have seen...



 ... an electrical supply stall, selling peeled lemonds as well,

 ...concrete tile manufacture and sale,

 ...plumbing and bathroom fittings,

 ...oversized lounge suites (not sure how many people actually had houses that would fit these chairs ?)

 ...cigarette and telephone card stall,

 .... green vegetable stall (note the woman carrying the bowl of produce on her head also has a baby strapped to her back - denoted by the two socked feet sticking out from each side of her waist),

....jandal/thong stall,

 ...wrought iron manufacture  (especially gates and railings),

...fruit (with lots of mangoes but have discovered gorgeous avocado that are big and of a finer texture than at home) and coconut stall,

...and reinforcing iron sales (these hugely unmagable bundles were often carried by a single man  along the road to the required building site),

.. as well as activities of daily living that go on around me that includes children of all ages involved in contributing to essential chores, often appearing way beyond their capabilites, eg. carrying loads on their heads from the market to their homes.

Some typical  suburban street scenes here in Conakry include dirt roads anywhere off the main thoroughfares, and transport of produce from house to house (see eggs below) atop heads.

My general impressions of life here is one of shanty towns (often made of tauparlins, old wrought iron, and recycled wood) dirt, mud, and piles of rubbish that are integrated into living and cooking areas, colourful attire worn by both men and women whether they be christian or muslim (approx 95%), beggers, pleaders of health care (eg. for blindness) or just for food.  Vendors are VERY keen to sell to you and offer higher than normal prices - one must bargain furiously with them and everyone of us has been had by paying way more than the locals would have.  It has been quite a challenge and uncomfotable at times.